Sewing-machine



c. c BLAKE. SEWING MACHINE- APPLICATION FILED AUG.8, I916- Patented July 27, 1920.

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C. C. BLAKE.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION men was, 1916.

Patented July 27, 1920.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

Patented July 27, 1920.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

fzwentor C. C. BLAKE. SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED AUG-8, 191s.

Patented July 27, 1920.

a SHEETS-SHEET 4.

C. C. BLAKE.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED AUG-8, I916- Pzitented July 27, 1920.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 5- C. C. BLAKE.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION men AUG-8. 1916.

1,347,889, I Patented July 27, 1920.

6 SHEETSSHEET 6.

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g fiawmafar 97 k We UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

CHARLES C. BLAKE, OF IBROOlKLINE MASSACHUSETTS.

SEWING-MACHINE.

To all whom it may concern: i

Be it known that I, CHARLES C. BLAKE, a citizen of the United States, residing at Brookline, in the county of Norfolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a specification.

The present invention relates to sewing machines, and more particularly to machines for performing the inseam sewing operation in the manufacture of Blake welt shoes.

The, object of the invention is to simplify and improve the operation of the sewing machine disclosed in Patent No. 1,284,856, issued to me November 12, 1918.

To the accomplishment of this object, and

such others as may hereinafter. appear, the features of the invention relates to certain devices combinations and arrangements of parts, hereinafter described and -then set forth broadly and in detail in the appended claims, which possess advantages readily apparent to those skilled in the art.

The various features of the present invention will be best understood from an inspection of the accompanying drawings illustrating the best form of the invention at:

present devised in which,

Figure 1 is a front elevation of the sewing machine;

Jig. 2 is a right side elevation;

Fig. 3 is a detail in rearelevation of the welt guide and its actuating devices;

Fig. at is a detail in front elevation of the actuating mechanism for the looper;

Fig. 5 is a detail in front elevation of the tongue and stitch-forming devices;

Fig. 6 is a sectional plan of the looper;

Fig. 7 is an elevation of the looper;

Fig. 8 is a front elevation of the welt guide;

Fig. guide; a

Fig. 10 is an elevation of the locking and tripping device for the welt guide; V

Fig. 11 is a broken detail in plan of the looper and its actuating mechanism;

Fig. 12 is a detail in plan showing another position of the looper and its actuating mechanism; d

Fig. 13 is a perspective, partly in section. showing the position of the outside 9 is a right side elevation of the welt foot and the manner in which the material Specification of Letters Patent. Patented July 27, 192() Application filed August 8, 1916.

Serial No. 113,724.

humps beneath it during the penetrationof the awl and forming devices. The tongue-forming devices comprise a knife for forming a vertical furcular slash in the margin of the sole and an awl for intersecting the furcular slash below the surface of the insole and separating the material of the insole bounded by the tines of the fork from the body portion of the insole thus forming a tongue integral therewith. The knife and awl thus form a series of tongues rectangular in cross section along the peripheral margin of the sole for the reception of the inseam stitches. The knife and awl are maintained substantially normal to the face and edge of the insole respectively and also to each other as their points of operation are transferred around the shoe thus insuring the formation of uniform tongues. As the fureular slashes and awl-cuts are formed normal to the face and edge of theinsole respectively the sides of each tongue are perpendicular to the face of the insole and the top and bottom faces of each tongue are parallel, thereby producing a substantial piece of stock for rigidly holding the stitches. The stitch-forming devices comprise a straight eye-pointed needle for carrying the thread through the welt, upper and insole and a looper or spreader for looping the thread over the tongues and subjecting the tongues to pressure to depress them substantially below the surface of the sole. v In the illustrated embodiment of the invention t e lasted shoe hereinafter termed for convenience the shoe-is mounted upon a jack 1 of the saddle and spindle type. The jack 1 is provided with a pair of runners 2 which slide over a platen 3 secured to a bracket 4 on a column 5. The jack 1 is moved longitudinally and swung laterally during its feed over the platen to transfer the point of operation of the tools around the shoe. v

The devices for forming a series of tongues along the peripheral margin of one face of the sole comprise a knife 6 (Figs. 4c and 5) and an awl 7 (Figs. 5 and 13). The knife is constructed to form a furcular slash comprising a fork 8 (Fig. 13) having two. tines 9, and a stem 10 connected to the fork. The formation of the tongue commenced by the knife is completed by the awl 7 which has a width substantially greater than the knife so that when it, penetrates the sole and intersects the slash below the surface of the sole it will separate the material bounded by the tines'of the fork of the slash from the body portion of the sole thus forming a tongue integral with the sole.

The knife 6 is secured to the lower end of aslide 11' (Fig. 4) mounted to slide in ways formed on I a segmental carrier 12. This carrier is provided upon its exterior face with tracks 13 (Figs. 3 and 4) which are engaged by rolls 1% journaled on a slide 15 (Figs. 1 and 1) mounted to slide vertically beneath cover plates 16 in square ways formed in a headli'. 'The slide 15 is loosely supported in its ways 'so that it may rise and fall in accordance with the varying heights of work. The interior face of the carrier 12 is engaged by another roll' 18 (Fig. 3) which is journaled on a stud 19 carried by an extension 20 of the slide 15.

With this construction the carrier 12 is free to tip laterally on the slide 15.

In order to insure the formation of uniform tongues it is desirable to maintain the knife throughout its operation upon the sole substantially normal to the face of the sole at its point of operation and to maintain the awl substantially normal to the edge face of the sole at its point of operation. To this end the carrier 12 is provided with a pair of gages or feet 21 and 22 arranged to engage the sole. In the machine disclosed in the application hereinbefore referred to the sole-engaging feet performing the same carrierti J vin function as the feet 21 and 22 were mounted one feeding step in advance of the operating point. In order to render the carrier-tipping function of the feet 21 and 22 more accurate they are mounted in the machine of the drawings in the same vertical plane as the knife 6 and awl 7. To this end the foot 21 is offset from the shank thereof which depends from the carrier 12. The foot 22 is mounted on a support 23 (Fig. 5), secured to a carrier 24 for the awl 7. The carrier 2 1 is rigidly secured at 25 to an arm 26 (Fig. 3) projecting laterally from the carrier 12. The foot 22 is formed on one end of a bent arm 27 (Fig. 5) which is provided with a shank 28 rotatably mounted in the support 23.

The aXis about which the gage or foot 22 rotates intersects the medial line of the gage at the surface of the sole so that the gage may readily adapt itself to the longitudinal curvaturethereof. The foot 22 has a twopoint contact with the sole (Fig. 13) so that the material displacedby the awl may hump beneath the foot and thus prevent the foot from binding the awl in the work. lVhen the jack is actuated to transfer the points of operation of the tools around the shoe the feet 21 and 22 drag over the sole under the influence of the weight of the slide 15 and its associated parts. As the carrier 12 is mounted for free lateral movement on the slide 15- the feet uniformly engage the sole notwithstanding the variations in the lateral curvature thereof and thus swing the carrier to maintain the knife and awl substantially normal respectively to the surface and edge face of the sole. I

lVith this construction the knife is tipped laterally to maintain it substantially normal to the surface of the sole and is also caused to rise and fall in accordance with the varying heights of the work. In order to obviate any danger of the feet not adapting themselves accurately to the curvature of the sole under the influence of gravity the machine is provided with mechanism for additionally exerting pressure upon the teeth to insure their accommodation to the surface of the sole. To this end the slide 15 carries a ratchet 29 (F ig. 4) which is engaged by a pawl 30 pivotally mounted on an arm 31 projecting from a rock shaft 32 journaled in a bracket 33 on the head 17. The pawl '30 is 1 pressed toward the ratchet 29 by a leaf spring 3% carried by the arm 31 an'd'ar ranged to engage a tail 35 on the pawl. When theffeet 21 and 22 are accommodating themselves to the lateral curvature of the sole under the influence of gravity the pawl 30 is held out of engagement with the ratchet 29 by a dog 36 carried by one of the cover plates 16. To actuate the pawl 30 to engage the ratchet 29 and depress the slide 15 after the gravity operation of the feet 21 and 22, the rock shaft 32 carries a second arm 37 which is connected by a yielding connection to the upper arm of a modified bell crank lever 38 pivoted on the rock shaft 32. The yielding connection consists of a rod 39, pivoted to the lever 38 and arranged to pass loosely through a boss 10 formed on the arm 37, and a spring 41, coiled around the rod 39 and interposed between the boss 40 and an adjusting nut 12 on the rod. The upper end of the bell crank lever38 carries a roll 43 engaged in a groove 44 formed in the back face of a disk l5 on a cam shaft 4-6.

In order to lock the carrier 12 in the position determined for it by'the feet 21 and 22 the carrier is provided, between the tracks v13, with a series of teeth 47 (Fig. 4) which are engaged by a three-toothed detent 48; The detent is carried by a slide 49 mounted to slide on the back of the slide 15. The 'detent 48 is normally held out of engagement with the teeth 47-by a horizontal cam slide 50 arrangedtoengage a roll 51 which is journaled on a stud 52 secured to the slide 49 and arranged to work in a slot formed in the slide 15. The roll 52 is held against the cam slide 50 by a'coiled spring 53 which is interposed between a bracket secured to the slide 15 and a block arranged to partially house the roll 51. The cam slide 50 is mounted in ways formed in a plate 56 secured to the slide 15 and is provided with a. depression 57 (Fig. 4) which permits the roll 51 to drop and thus allow the detent 48 to engage the teeth 47. To actuate the cam slide 50 to elevate the roll 51, the slide is connected to an actuating block- 58 (Fig. 4) mounted to slide beneath a cover plate 59 in square ways formed on the bracket 33. The connection between the cam slide 50 and its a tuating block 58 comprises a tongue 60 formed on the slide and a vertical groove 61 formed on the block. This construction permits the cam slide 50 to move vertically with the slide 15 without breaking its connection with the block. The detent 48 is actuated to lock and unlock the carrier 12 by a connection between the block and the lower arm of the bell crank lever 38. To this end the block 58 carries a pin 62 which passes through a horizontal slot 63 formed in the bracket 33 and engages in a vertical slot 64 formedin the lower arm of the bell crank'lever 38. WVith this construction the slide 15 and the actuating block 58'are both actuated from the cam groove 44 but owing to the location of the depression 57 in the cam slide 50 the slide is depressed before the roll 51 drops into the depression for the purpose of locking the carrier 12.

After a tongue is completed the stitchforming devices operate to form the stitch. These devices comprise a needle 65 and a looper 66. The needle 65 is mounted on a block 67 which reciprocates in ways formed in the carrier 24.

:The looper 66 consists of a bent nose 68 formed on the lower end of a shank 69 mounted for rotation in the lower end of a shaft 7 O which is'rotatably' and slidably mounted in the support 23. The looper isnormally maintained elevated above the work by a leaf spring 71 (Fig 5) one end of which is secured to the support 23 and the other end of which is arranged to engage a shoulder 72 on the shaft 70.-. After the needle has passed completely through the 1 work in the manner illustrated in Figs. 11 and.12 it is withdrawn from-the work and forms a loop in the thread (Fig. 12) during the first part of the return stroke. The looper is then oscillated in a direction to pass the nose '68 between the shank of the needle and the thread (Fig. 12). This 05- cillating movement continues as the needle withdraws from the work until the thread is looped over the tongue. As the needle returns to its original position the needle arm simultaneously pulls upon the thread looped over the tongue by the looper to set the stitch and draw a fresh supply of thread from the thread supply. In order to oscillate the looper, in the manner described the shaft is universally jointed, through a rod 73 (Fig. 1) to a shaft 74 which is .slidably and rotatably mounted in bearings 7 5' carried by the head 17. Splined to the shaft 74 is a pinion 76 (Figs. 1, 4, 11 and 12) which isheld from longitudinal movement with the shaft by the bearings 75. The pinion is actuated to oscillate the looper first in one direction and then in the other by a reciprocating rack 77 (Figs. 11 and 12) formed on a rod 78' the forward end of which is journaled in the head 17 and the rear'end of which is rectangular andjournaled in a square bearing formed in a bracket 79. The rectangular portion of the rod 78 carries a pin 80 which reciprocates through a slot 81 in the bracket 79. The pin 80 carries a ro-ll82 which engages a peripheral groove 83 (Fig; 2) formed in a disk 8401i the cam shaft 46.

After the thread has been looped over theftongue the looper is actuated to subject the tongue to pressure to depress it substantially below the surface of the sole. To

this end the upper end of the shaft 74 is provided upon one side with a series of teeth 85 (Fig. 4) which, after the looper is at the end of its thread-looping stroke, are positioned for theoperation of a pawl 86 pivotally mounted on one end of a lever 87. shaft 88 one end of which is journaled in a bracket 89 on the head 17 and the other end of which'is journaled in the bracket 7 9. The rear end-of the lever 87 carries a pivoted'rod 90 which passes loosely through an arm 91 projecting from the rock shaft 88. Interposed between the arm 91 and an adjusting nut 92 on the rod90 is a spring 93 coiled around the rod. The pawl 86 is actuated through the yielding connection between the lever- 87 and arm 91 by a groove 94, on the cam disk 45, which engages a roll'95 on the'upp'er end of an arm 96 secured to one end of the rock shaft 88. )Vith this construction a partial rotation of the shaft 70 in one direction oscillates the looper to pass "between the thread and the shank of the needle and loop the thread over the tongue. At the' end of this oscillating movement of the looper one of the teeth 85 is engaged by the pawl 86. The pawl is then depressed to engage the looper The lever 87 is loosely mounted on awith the tongue.-- While the looper is engaged with the tongue the return oscillating stroke of the looper takes place which causes the looper'to Wipe overthe tongue. WVhen the looper wipes completely over the tongue the tooth 85 engaged by the pawl 86 is oscillated out of engagement with the pawl and the spring 71 (Fig. SIIZLPSthG looper back to its elevated position above actuating mechanism for the looper through wear, the shank 69 upon which the looper is formed carries a tail 97 which is normally held in contact with a tail 98 on the shaft 70 by a coiled spring 99 seated between the tails. WVhen the shaft 70 is oscillated in a direction to position the looper between the thread and the needle shank the nose' 68 moves with the shaft as a unit thereof. When the nose 68 reachesthe vertical plane of the needle (Fig. 12) the tail 97 engagesa stop 100 on the support 23 thus limiting the tongue-looping movement of the looper.

The welt used in the machine is split longitudinally along one edge so that the welt may be sewn to the sole with its upper surface in the same plane as the sole. In order to support and guide the welt the machine is provided with a welt guide 101 (Figs. 5, 8 and 9). The welt guide is provided with a V-shaped nose 102 arranged to engage in the split of the welt, and a pair of feet 103 and 104 arranged to engage respectively the top and bottom faces of the welt. The welt guide 101 is also provided with a slot 105 to permit the awl and needle to pass freely through the guide as they operate upon the work. The Welt guideis carried upon one end of a slide 106 which is arranged to slide in the carrier 24. The welt guide is held against the welt by a coiled spring 107 one end of which is secured to a pin 108 (Fig. 3) in the slide 106 and the other end of which is secured to the arm 26.

- The welt guide is withdrawn from the work by a cam lever 109 pivoted at 110 on the carrier 24. The lever 109 at one end is provided with a handle 111 at its other end with'a cam 112 arranged toengage the pin 108. When the handle 111 is depressed the cam 112 wedges the pin 108 to the left (Fig. 5) until the pin 108 engages a shoulder 113 on the cam which locks the slide in its withdrawn position. When the handle 111 is again elevated the pin 108 is freed from the shoulder 113 and the spring 107 then acts to place the welt guide in position against the work.

In order to intermittently lock the welt guide against the work during the withdrawing movement of the awl and needle therefrom, the upper surface of the slide 106 is engaged by a block or clamp 114 formed 7 on the stud.

on a bar 115 pivoted to the carrier 24. The free end of the bar 115 is curved and this portion-of the bar is engaged by a dog 116 (Fig. 5) which, is actuated during the operating cycle first to press upon the bar to Wedge the block 114 against the slide 106 and then to, release the bar 115 to permit the spring 107 to press the welt guide yieldingly against the work during the feed thereof. To this end the dog 116 depends from a short rock shaft 117 (Fig. 5) journaled in a bracket 118 (Fig. 5) secured to the extension 20 of the slide 15. A second arm 119 depending from the rock shaft 117 is connected by a link 120 to the lower end of the bell crank 38 (Fig. 4).

In order that' the dog 116 may trip the pin 108 from the shoulder 113 when the machine is started with the welt guide locked in its withdrawn position, the bar 115 carries a trip 121 (Figs. 3, 5 and 10) arranged to engage the lower end of the cam lever 109 when the bar 115 is depressed by the dog 116.

The waxthread used by the needle is drawn from a suitable source of thread sup ply through a tension device 123 (Fig. 3) secured to the head 17. The thread passes from the tension device 123 to a thread-eye 124 secured to an arm 125 loosely mounted on a stud 126 (Figs. 3 and 14) which is secured to a bar 127 bolted to the needle actuating lever 128. From the thread-eye 124 the thread passes over a hook 129 on the head 17 and then between a thread truck comprising a disk 130 (Fig. 14) on the arm 125 and a disk 131 loosely mounted on the stud 126. The thread is gripped between the disks under the tension'of a spring 132 coiled around the stud 126 and interposed between the disk 131 and an adjusting nut 133 From the disks 130 and 131 the thread passes through an opening 134 (Fig. 3) in the carrier 24, to the eye of the needle.

During the sewingoperation the thread is drawn through the disks 130 and 131 which press upon the thread to provide the desired tension. When the shoe is com pletely sewn it is desirable that a quantity of slack thread be provided to enable the operative to readily withdraw the sewed shoe away from the operating point. To

this end the arm 125 is provided interme diate its ends with a pm 135 which is em braced by a slot 136 formed in a radius bar In order to lock the disks 130 and 131 on away from the operating point, the latch.

139 is connected to the upper end of a link 142 the lower end of which is slotted to embrace the stud 126. The link 142 is provided at its lower end with a wedge 143 which fits between collars 144 and 145 ad jacent the arm 125 and bar 127, respectively. When the handles 138' and 141 are grasped to trip the latch 139 the link- 142 is elevated thus wedging the collar 144 and arm 125 to the left, Fig. 14, thereby increasing the tension on the threadto cause it to be firmly gripped between the disks 130 and 131. With the thread gripped in the manner described the arm 125 may then be swung toward the operative thus actuating the thread-eye 124 to withdraw the desired amount of slack thread from the thread supply. 1 y

It will be clear to those skilled in this art, and with the general objects of the present invention in view, that changes may be made in the details of structure, the described and illustrated embodiment thereof being intended as an exploitation of its underlying essentials,.the features whereof are definitely stated in their true scope in the claims herewith. I

What isc'laimed as new, is r 1. A "shoe machine, having,'i n combination, an operating tool, a shoe support longitudinally movable androtatable to transfer the point of operation of the tool around the shoe, a tool carrier,'and a plurality of feet mounted on the carrier in the same vertical plane as the operating tool arranged to engage the shoe and adapt themselves to the curvature thereof and swing the carrier during the-transfer of the tool around the shoe to maintain the toolsubstantiallynormal to the shoe, substantially as described.

2. A shoe machine, having, incombination, an operating tool, a shoe support longitudinally movable and rotatableto transfer the point of operation of the tool around the shoe, atool carrier, and a plurality of feet mounted on the carrier in the same vertical plane as the operating tool arranged to engage the shoe and adapt themselves to the lateral curvature thereof and swing the carrier during the transfer of the tool around the shoe to maintain the tool substan tially normal to the shoe, substantially as described.

3. A shoe machine, having, in combination, an' operating tool, a shoe support longi tudinally movable and rotatable to transfer the point of operation of the tool around the shoe, a tool carrier, and a plurality of feet mounted on the carrier in the same vertical plane as the operating tool arranged toengage the shoe and adapt themselves to the curvature thereof and swing the carrier during the transfer of the tool around the shoe to maintain the tool substantially normal to the shoe, one of said feet being movable about an axis intersecting the medial line of the foot at the surface of the shoe, substantially as described. V

4. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitchforming devices including an awl, a shoe support longitudinally movableand rotatable to transfer the point of operation of the stitch-forming devices around the shoe, a carrier for the stitch-forming de-.

vices, a plurality of feet, mounted on the carrier in the same vertical plane as the awl, arranged to "engage the shoe and adapt themselves to the curvature thereof and swing the carrier during the transfer of the stitchforming devices around the shoe to maintain the awl substantially normal to the shoe, substantially as described. 7

5. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming devices including an awl, a shoe support longitudinally movable and rotatableto transfer the point of operation of the stitch-forming devices around the shoe, a carrier for the stitch-forming devices, a plurality of feet, mounted on the carrier in the same vertical plane as the .awl, arranged to engage the shoe and adapt themselves to the curvature thereof and swing the carrier during the transfer of the stitchforming devices around the shoe to maintain the awl substantially normal to the shoe, one

shank of the needle subsequent to the .pas-' sage of the needle through the tongued member, means for actuating the looper in the direction of width of the tongue to guide the thread over the'tongue as the needle withdraws from the tongued member, and a stop for limiting the said movement of the looper independent of its actuating means, substantially as described.

7. A machine for sewing members together one of which is tongued, having, in combination, aneedle arranged to carry the thread through the members, a looper having a nose thereon arranged to pass between the thread and the shank of the needle subsequent to the passage of the needle through the tongued member, means for actuating the looper. in the direction of the width of the tongue to guide the thread over the tongue as the needlewithdraws from the tongued member, and means for ending the said movement'of the looper when the nose on the looper is in the vertical plane of the needle, substantially as described.

8. A sewing machine, having, in combination, a shaft, a shank rotatably mounted thereon, a looper on the shank, and a yield mg connection between the shaft andthe shank, substantially as described. 7 9. A sewing machine, having, in com-i bination, a shaft, a shank rotatably mounted thereon, a looper on the shank, and a yielding connection between the shaft andthe shank comprising tails on the shaft and shank, respectively, and a spring interposed between the tails, substantially as described, 1 0. A sewingmachine, having, in combination, a shaft, a shank rotatably mounted thereon," a looper on the shank, means for oscillatingthev shaft and the shankyand A look to release the welt described.

means for differentiallyending the oscillating movements ofthe shaft and the shank in one direction,substantially as described.

11. A sewing machine, having, in combination, a shaft; a shank rotatably mounted.

thereon; a looper on the shank; a yielding connection between the shaft and the shank comprising tails on the shaft and shank, re-- bination, stitch-forming devices, a welt guide, a manually operated device for looking the welt guide withdrawn from the work, and automaticmeans for tripping the guide, substantially as described. 7 I r 14. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming devices, a welt guide, a slide therefor, a spring acting on the slide to press the welt guide against the work, a cam for retracting the slide against the tension of the spring and for locking the slide with the welt guide withdrawn from the work, and means for actuating the cam to unlock the slide and'to restore'it to the influence of the sprin substantially as 15. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming devices, a welt guide, a slide therefor, a pivoted clamp mounted above the slide, means for actuating the clamp to press upon the slide and lock the welt guide against the work, means for,

locking the welt .guide withdrawn from the work and a trip carried by the pivoted clamp for tripping the lock to release the welt guide, substantially as described.

16. A sewing machine, having, in COIH'.

bination, means for sewing a welt to a-lasted 7 shoe comprising a needle and a weltrguide mounted on the same slde of the work, and

means for locking the welt guide against the work during the; withdrawal of the needle from the work, substantially as. de

7 scribed.

17. A sewing machine, having, in combination, means for sew ng a welt to a lasted shoe comprising an awl and a welt'guide mounted on thesame side'of the work, and means for locking the welt guideagainst the work during the withdrawal of the awl from the work, substantially as described.-

18. A sewmg machine, having, 1n combination, means for sewing a welt to'a lasted.

shoe comprising a needle, an awl and a welt guide mounted on the same side of the 20. A sewing machine, having, in com-v bination, means for sewing a welt to a lasted shoe comprising a welt guidesupporting a welt having one edge longitudinally split, a needle and an awl operating through the welt guide for securing the-split welt to a lasted shoe, and Ineansfor lockingthe welt guide against the shoe during the withdrawal of the needle and the awl from the work, substantially as described.

21. A shoe machine, having, in combination,stitch-f0rming devices; a welt guide; a slide therefor; a pin on the slide; a spring having one end connectedto the pin for pressing-the welt guide against the'work; a lever having a cam, engaging the pin for retracting the slide against the tension of the spring, and a notch for locking the pin with the slide retracted; means for lock-' ing the welt guide against the work during each cycle'and a connection between said means and said cam for disengaging the pin from the cam when the machine is started with the slide retracted, substantially as described.

22. A sewing machine, having, in combi-J nation, a needle, actuating mechanism there for, a tension device and a thread-eye car ried by a part of the actuating mechanism and means for locking the tension device on the thread and actuating the thread-eye to draw thread from the thread supply, substantially as described.

23. A sewing machine, having, in combi nation, a tension device, a thread eye interposed between the tension device and the thread supply, means for locking the tension device on the thread, and means operated separately for actuating the thread-eye to draw thread from the thread supply, substantially as described.

24. A sewing machine, having, in combi nation, a needle, an actuating lever therefor, a tension device and a thread-eye carried by the actuating lever, means for looking the tension device on the thread, and means for actuating the thread eye to draw thread from the thread supply, substantially as described.

25. A sewing machine, having, in combination, a needle, an actuating lever therefor, a stud carried by the lever, an arm loosely pivoted on the stud, a thread truck having one wheel on the arm and the other wheel loosely mounted on the stud, a tension for the truck, a thread-eye on the arm, means for increasing the tension to lock the wheels of the truck on the thread, and a handle on the arm for actuating the thread-eye to draw thread from the thread supply, substantially as described.

26. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming devices, a welt guide, a manually operated device for withdrawing the welt guide from the work and for locking the welt guide in withdrawn position, and means for tripping the lock to release the welt guide.

CHARLES C. BLAKE. 

